Harriet Marshall’s travel journal, 30 March – 4 April 1847 (continued)

by Anna-Maria Hajba, Archivist

Join us on a journey from Calcutta to the Island of St Helena through the pages of a journal kept by Harriet Marshall between 9 January and 4 April 1847 on her way from Allahabad to County Tyrone. A weekly blog post series, running 10 January to 4 April 2025, presents transcriptions from her journal for the preceding week.

…oh! how disappointed & disgusted I was with the appearance of Longwood[.] in the room where the great Napoleon breathed his last moments a huge ugly looking Threshing machine was put up, his Billiard room so dirty & in ruins & the other 2 rooms all in the same state all the interest of the place has been completely done away with, such [is] the end of all earthy grandeur was the lesson it taught me[.]

 

Longwood House, St Helena by James Wathen, 1821. From the British Library archive, shelfmark Maps.3.c.38. In the public domain.

 

I felt it quite a relief to leave the scene[.] I was surprised to see that the habit of which we “English” have been so accused of by foreigners has been so much adopted by the French[.] the walls door, & cases was [sic] literally covered with different name[s] I observed a great many French ones[.] if we had wished we could not have scribbled our names in any one of the 4 rooms[,] all space had been filled up.  The Passengers from the “Sandford” wrote theirs on the Threshing machine[.] I begged the gentlemen of our party not to follow their example[.] if the House had been kept up with any regard for the associations of our idea’s & a Book kept for the purpose I should like to have left a written memorial of our visit.  On our return to the Hotel we looked down upon the Valley where the Tomb of Napoleon had once been, it seemed to be kept in a neat state judging from a distance & a height but I believe distance lent enchantment to the view for it is rapidly falling to decay, we were all so tired & wearied that we were very glad to get back to the Hotel[.]

 

The Tomb of Napoleon by Nathaniel Currier, c. 1842. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, object number 38.145.447. In the public domain.

 

we were out 5 hours & part of the time, the heat was intense, but with all the disadvantages I would not have missed the trip for any thing[.] the scenery was really beautiful in many parts of the Island[,] particularly where we could get a glimpse of the sea, we saw some vessel leaving the Island & it looked like a speck on the Ocean[.] we were at the time on one of the highest points of the Mountains[.] this Vessel we afterwards learnt was the “Gloriana”[.] she passed so close to our ship that they spoke, the Kennedy’s Mrs Berrill & I were inquired for by name, Colonel Lawrence must have thought of me, they did not stop so by this they have 27 hours ahead of us, but for all this start I fully expect & hope to be in England first[.]

 

The East Indiaman Gloriana by Thomas Goldsworth Dutton, 1843. © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, object no. PY0580. In the public domain.

 

On our return to the Hotel we found Lady Littler1 the Reid’s & Mrs Berrill had formed another party in the next Room to us & were in high dudgeon at our having the best rooms, if they had been sensible & kindly disposed they would have shewn us by their manner that they wished to join us but instead of this we were shunned & when passed it was with a cold look or never at all, they dined in the room which was used as a Table D’hote, we should have been very glad if they had joined us as we had a fine large airy room, with space enough for all, the consequences of their trying to make a Private room of a Public one were very disagreeable[.] high words passed between Mr Reid & some Navy Officers belonging to 2 War Steamers which were anchored alongside of our ship & altogether they were uncomfortable & discontented with themselves & each other, as for our Party we were happy but the Dinner was a bad one, Dr Welsh & Mrs Wintle joined us at Dinner, we sang and played & went to Bed[.] Eliza2 her Baby Willy3 [Mrs] Gairdner,4 Harriet5 & I slept in the same room, Major Kennedy6 & our 2 boys7 slept in another room below stairs[.] I was up early & took a stroll through the Town, & on the Ramparts with Colonel Moule & the children, took a look over Solomon’s Boarding House, if ever it is my luck to go to St Helena again I shall most certainly not choose Mrs Lawler’s Hotel for my Inn, such a contrast was Solomon’s to the place we were at, every thing there, was clean handsome & comfortable[.] I could not get a Bath at our Hotel so ordered one at Solomon’s at 11 O Clock a cold one, we then walked back to our Hotel Breakfasted & afterwards went out shopping, I bought stuffs for 2 Dresses, as my Bombazeen [sic] ones are looking very shabby[.] the skirts of them are worn away from walking & sometimes I tore them going up & down stairs[.] it was quite a mistaken notion of mine wearing mourning on the voyage for it soon wears away & is the hottest colour[.] I bought some Hot Cross Bun’s as next day was good Friday & as a treat for the children[.] a little past 11 O.C. I went for my bath to Solomon’s where at first I was refused the Bath on the plea of not living at the House but the old Housekeeper a very respectable woman stood my friend, & gave me a dressing room, a shawl & wrapper, as I had to run along a verandah from the room to the Bath, which I enjoyed very much[.] afterwards when dressed I walked into every room to make sure of treading the same place as I had done in my childhood when we stopped at the Island on our Voyage Home.  I paid 5 shillings for my Bath, I hope they will be cheaper in England or I shall not be able to afford many[.]

 

A boat pulling away from the landing place at St Helena by Lieutenant William Innes Pocock, early 19th century. © National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London, object no. PAF0065. In the public domain.

 

At ½ past 2 O.C. we all walked down in a body to the Landing place got into Boats and rowed back to the good ship Alfred in time for Dinner which we enjoyed more than the one of the night before on shore[.] at 4 O.C. P.M. we weighed anchor on the 1st of April 1847[.] a good breeze soon bore us far away from the Rock of St Helena, and now I must go on with my journal on sheets of Paper till we arrive in England.

 

Here we must bid a fond farewell to Harriet and her children and wish them a bon voyage on their onward journey.  If you have any information about Harriet’s subsequent adventures, we should love to hear from you!

 

Harriet’s journal has been digitised and is available to read in full on the UL Digital Library.

  1. Helen Olympia née Stewart (c. 1809-1855), daughter of Lieutenant-Colonel Henry Stewart and Louisa Colebrooke and wife of Major-General Sir John Hunter Littler.[↩]
  2. Eliza Madelina Kennedy née Turner (1820-1890), wife of Captain James Don Kennedy (1806-1898).[↩]
  3. Eliza Kennedy’s youngest child, William Turner Kennedy (1846-1890).[↩]
  4. Jane Gairdner née Wishart (1822-1894), wife of Major General William John Gairdner (1789-1861) of the Bengal Infantry.[↩]
  5. Harriet’s daughter, Harriett (‘Harry’) Susan Marshall (1842-1926).[↩]
  6. Captain James Don Kennedy (1806-1898).[↩]
  7. Harriet’s son, Robert (‘Bobby’) George Swayne Marshall (1841-1915) and Eliza’s eldest son James Edward (‘Jimmy’) Kennedy (1841-1865).[↩]